Sunday, April 5, 2015
ramen in portland - part 3 中華料理拉麺
Soup noodles is one of the most eaten meals for me. They are the most versatile dish whenever you want to spend the least amount of time cooking. I know, it seems counter intuitive. Making a bowl of delicious soup noodle from scratch can take a lot of effort. The broth alone takes hours of simmering. To take ramen for example, there are the slow braised chashu 义燒, half-boiled egg, chopped scallions, menma 麺麻, and toasted nori all need to be prepared.
In case you wonder, the Chinese "中華料理" in the heading means "prepared or managed by Chinese". In Japan one very often see this qualification on the store signs at ramen shops that is ran by Chinese Japanese.
There are many time saving shortcuts I have developed form decades of cooking. The key is to prepare these items in big batch and keep in the refrigerator. This works very well even for one person.
While it is nice to stay true to the must have ingredients when preparing bowls of ramen for a photogenic presentation, I sometimes skip one or two for the sake of expediency. I also use various noodles often what I have on hand, so most of the time my soup noodles are not ramen for the sake of authenticity. In odd occasions I do prepare more the less true ramen, when ingredients, mood, and time permit.
This weekend I went look for ramen noodle made by Sun at my local Asian supermarket Uwajimaya. Finding the noodles took some work. I have looked for them many times at the sections where the store keep countless brands and types of noodles.
It turned out the Sun brand noodles they have is frozen, and it the Hawaii's Original Saimin. This comes in 2 serving package with two packs of powder soup base. I was hoping to find Sun's wavy noodle. Not exactly what I have in mind, but I know it is the closet and the best ramen I can hope to find. Such a shame the Asian supermarket where most Japanese shop don't carry the straight-ahead noodle only fresh ramen by Sun.
i also picked up a pack of unseasoned menma from Japan
i recently discovered this dry noodles from Korea; it is one of the very few dry noodles that is toothsome
even for Korean food i always check the country of origin; unfortunately often nowadays food product from Korea, Taiwan, and many countries near China (PROC) can still be from PROC but just package in the country of XYZ (Product of XYZ)
i braised a piece of pork into ramen chashu - this one braised for ~6 hours in very low heat
A note on the trick to prepare great chashu in a bowl of ramen. Once you and your sous chef Chronos both done your job resulted in a melt in the mouth piece of chashu, the challenge is cutting it into photogenic slices. Put the braised pork in the refrigerator for a few hours uncovered. The piece of pork will slice easily with a sharp knife and the excess liquid would have evaporated. When plating the bowl, put the slices of chashu on top of the noodles before pouring the hot broth over it.
i seasoned up small batch of menma (right in photo) with some dashi powder and soy sauce; it is important to squeeze out the liquid of the menma before seasoning them so they will take on the flavor
I didn't feel like spending time to preparing a batch of half-boiled eggs ahead of time. I did make some freshly toasted nori but they are not in these photos. I already have a big pot of pork broth made with pig neck bone so that is the soup broth base. I prepared the broth for ramen in shoyu flavor.
i took the liberty to add a fair amount of boiled spinach - for a healthier meal
Any reasonable amount of vegetable added to a bowl of ramen ruins the presentation so most vegetable does not work. Spinach is unique that a good amount will wilt and reduce significantly in volume. They also soak up the flavorful broth. One technique that Japanese cook would do is to lightly squeeze the spinach into a clump to make for nice presentation. I generally am not too fussy on the presentation for making a meal for myself. The proof is in the taste, mouth feel, and textures.
Preparation of ramen has evolved in leaps and bounces in recent years and almost anything goes. It is very hard now to judge what is authentic, and I have very little hang up on the notion of authenticity, as long as the basic spirits are there.
so delicious with very hearty (as opposed to weak) broth - i recently like to add a drizzle of good sesame oil; note to self - next time roast some sesame seeds
this bowl is made with the Korean dried noodle
this bowl is made with Chinese wonton thin noodles
now i won't call this a bowl of ramen; this has beef and fresh clams; call it my house soup noodle of the day :-)
The biggest challenge for making a good bowl of ramen for me is sourcing good quality noodles. Even here in Portland where there is a good size Japanese American population it is next to impossible to find. I really hope Sun would one day sell a big box of ramen noodles to consumers as they do for restaurants. I see no reason one cannot store the noodles in the freezer.Unfortunately the company currently only sells to businesses.
May be one day, I would decide to make my own fresh noodles as a challenge.
this time remember to add the nori for the photo op
this bowl has shittake mushroom
tonkatsu with savory cabbage
endless bowls
roasting sesame seeds
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