This is a following on post to the brunnhilde's cassette toilet project.
In my last post I neglected to point out where this compact toilet store the flush water. It can store 15 litres of flush water and 19.3 litres of waste water. The genius is the clever utilization of space. It store the flush water in the inverted L-shape cavity of the toilet. Drug smugglers should take note.
the flush water is stored in the inverted L-shape cavity of the toilet as you can see in this photo - the sight glass on the right allow one to visually check the remaining capacity though the waste water disposal access behind the bath from the rear door of the camper
the catalog shows the capacities of the C402-C toilet
there is even a funnel provided
the funnel to make filling the flush water easier
I have been agonizing over a number of alternative approach to the conversion. The most challenging part of the project is how to deal with the shower pan. I have considered three different options.
1) Procure the shower pan used in the European James Cook that have the cassette toilet.
2) Fabricate my own shower pan from fiberglass cloth.
3) Modify the existing shower pan.
Each of these options has their pros and cons and I have been wavering amongst them afraid of making a mistake. Sometimes too much experience can get in the way. I remember the just-do-it attitude in my younger days. Now with more experience I tend to be more cautious - may be too cautious as in repairing the limp home mode.
Today I decided to do a deep dive (a over-used term in executives and lawyers these days) to determine if I missed anything in the planned execution of option 3. Option 3 cost the least amount of money and also the least risk, providing I can devise a satisfactory method to obscure the void left by the removal of the raised platform for the existing toilet. I will also need to fabricate a dam on the cut edge of the shower pan adjacent to the apron of the new toilet.
a good shower pan is more than what meet the eyes; it should have built in slopes to discourage pooling of water; there is a crease line along the ruler
i remove the toilet to have a better look of the shower pan as well as checking for anything that i may overlook in my conversion plan
the toilet is held down by two bolts like the residential toilet in north america
it is wise to have a bucket of soap water and wash cloth ready for this grisly business
before the toilet can be removed you have to disconnect the water supply and pump activation wire harness
least i follow the fate of don giovanni i didn't want to get too close to the passage leading to the abyss
i enlist the help of froggy and he was eager to help
gasket that seals the nasty sewer gas in - at least in theory...
to decommission the sewer water tank there are few things to be disconnected; the vent hose at the far end of the photo; the poop sensor; the toilet connecting riser ABS pipe; and the dump hose connection
here show the sewer tank connection to the dumping manifold - no surprise here
here shows the ABS pipe connecting to the flange on the bath floor where the toilet is attached; it is connected to the plastic storage tank through a flange but sealed with black silicon caulking
upon closer examination i can see it is glued to the ABS pipe - the removal of the sewer storage tank requires cutting the ABS pipe (a non-reversible step)
the pipe will have to be cut here - once cut there is not enough space to reconnect with a joint collar!
checking the warm air outlet of the cabin furnace - it clears the top of the toilet - i checked this last year when planning the project
in this photo the scaled side of the ruler is the cut line of the shower pan; it is also where a raise lip serving as a dam needs to be fabricated - the new toilet will seat behind the dam
move over, panton
trust me - i scrubbed my fingers really well before eating
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