Thursday, September 13, 2012

filters for brunnhilde

I have been wanting to change the engine oil for Brunnhilde quite some time now. What kept me from the maintenance work is figuring which brand of OEM filters to buy. While there are reputable manufacturers of after market "OE quality" parts, they qualities are not all equal. Each time I went shopping on the web the availability of different brands changes. Many list a number of possible brands so what you get is a crapshoot.

Eventually I decided not to waste more time and ordered from a vendor that seems likely to delivery what I expect. That requires reading between the line of the descriptions very carefully - something I do quite well from my professional experience.

the content costs over $200 USD

A few days later the package arrived. I could not believe how light the package is and it cost over $200 USD. Why not order from the dealer and get factory quality parts? Not a chance in hell, I say. I have performed my own maintenance since high school and I have a pretty good handle when you go to the dealer. Generally not with parts for routine maintenance.
the content inside - it turns out all the filters are hengst (a reputable german OEM manufacturer)
i order 2 fuel filters and also 5 each of 13mm and 15mm hose clamps; the filter says "made in eu" - don't tell me a whole lot...

Speaking of hose clamps, I traced the diesel smell in the cockpit while driving in hot climate to the wormdrive hose clamps (so commonly used by ignorant mechanics) on the fuel hoses at the fuel filter. Clearly someone had changed the fuel filter and use the worst kind of host clamps in the world.

I was once in a Napa auto parts store in my neighborhood to pick up a tap I order online. While waiting for them to locate it (after the clerk sworn it is not in the store) I asked if they have the hose clamp designed for used with fuel lines. I recognized the man has been in this store forever. He point me to the wormdrive hose clamp. I reiterated one that is design to minimize the uneven pressure around the hose but it was like reasoning with a wall. His reply was, they have always sell these for fuel application and never had a problem. I stop wasting my breath.

The hose clamps I ordered is very much I expected. While they are not made of stainless steel they are zinc plated and are reasonably quality at ~$1.20 each. There are two reinforcing ribs on the weakest section so I expect the clamping pressure on these clamp to be even enough around the circumference of the hose.

air filter are made in germany
 the air filter (big box) is also made in germany
the cabin air filter is no-name brand and is made in is made in israel

In all I ordered 11 oil filters, 2 fuel filters, and one each of the engine and cabin air filter, plus enough hose clamps for the fuel filter change. I am relatively happy with the quality and brands of the parts I received.

Now I just have to find time to perform the filter/oil change.

Sep 17 Update
Yesterday I changed the fuel filter taking advantage of the late afternoon sun.

Only a few simple hand tools are required. However having a vice make swapping of the water sensor from the old filter to the new a lot easier.

I did not take as many photos as I would had like but the diesel and grease coated hands make it difficult not to dirty up the camera.

1) Loosen the two hose clams on the inlet and outlet fuel lines at the filter. Detach both hoses from the filter. If I planned better I would find something to plug the hose to prevent the diesel fuel from leaking onto the ground. I have to rush to the tool drawers to find something fast. I used different sizes of plastic electrical wire nuts.

2) Loosen the hex screw on the filter bracket and slide out the filter upwards. Take care not to spill to spill the diesel fuel as you maneuver it out of the engine bay.

3) Once the filter is out. I tried to remove the oil sensor from the old filter in order to transfer to the new one. To do that one have to rotate the sensor assembly clockwise to unlock it from the two brackets on the filter securing it. Knowing there are 2 o-rings inside I pull and twist with my hand attempt to extract it. It was quite tight and I know I need to insert a thin screw driver to add some leverage to pull the sensor out while using one hand to twist it back and forth. A vice make it easier.

4) I clamped the old filter loosely on the vice so I have 2 hands to work the water sensor loose. I insert a thin blade slotted screw driver between the sensor and the filter housing and ply it gently while using another hand to twist it CW and CCW back and forth. This easily break the frictions of the 2 o-rings and the sensor slides out smoothly.

5) The next step is to replace the 2 o-rings with new ones that come with the new filter. Then insert the sensor into the new filter. Re-install the two star screws securing it to the 2 brackets of the filter.

star screws installed on brackets


 new (left) and old (right) filter side by side

6) The old wormdrive hose clamps on the fuel line was installed by the previous service. The use of them result in slow leaks at the connections. The cabin smelled of diesel fuel especially driving in hot weather. This type of clamps are not suitable for the high pressure (I would go on to say even for low pressure) application unless one does not care about leak. I ordered these good hose clamps with spares to boot. The irony is the good hose clamps are cheaper and simpler to manufacture, and the performance is far superior.

It is amazing that wormdrive clamps are all most auto-supply stores sell and yet the proper hose clamps can only be found if you have the tenacity and willing to pay often extravagant prices.

Why such inferior product outsells superior one? 1) wormdrive clamp has much wider range inherant to the design. 2) the wider range is inherant to the design but it is also the biggest weakness. Only when the diameter is to big with respect to the size of the worm gear mechanism the achille's heel of the design - uneven clamp pressure that these clamps work acceptabably. 3) the store need to store far less variety of different sizes. 4) most folks are not all that together to know which exact size they need for the application, hence less return and exchange the store have to deal with (exchange and return is very expensive for businesses).

junk wormdrive clamps on the outside; 15mm and 13mm good clamps inside

 7) proper hose clamps installed - the smaller hose uses 13mm and the larger hose uses 15mm.

 proper hose clamps installed
 the vent tube in the middle of the filter installed
 all the simple hand tools used

 
The T1N sprinter has in-tank fuel pump. Before starting the engine I left the ignition key switched on for a few seconds to let the fuel pump fill up the new filter with fuel. The engine started up at the first crank. There is no fuel leak visible at the new clamps.

siegfried also got a nice treat of new coat of german high tech wax applied in the shade - first since 2004 mainly because i used gasoline (you what? yes gasoline) to gently remove road tar on the lower sides of the body



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