For the barn this time around I want a decent industry quality compressor. I also want one that have generous CFM capacity that can keep up with air tools. I searched for a used one and found one with a 3 phase motor on it and I jumped on it since I know I can invest in a single phase motor of same horsepower. It is a monster built in USA with all domestic parts, so bringing it home requires some care and muscle and care.
the magnetic switch obviously is a three-phase one, but I was determine not having to incur additional expense to buy a single phase one; lets see how well I fair on this
this is the pressure switch with a over pressure safety relief valve below it
there is nothing said about how to wire it up for 230V 30A single phase - but I have a pretty good idea to make it work despite of it; I wanted to avoid having to invest another $150 for a magnetic switch from CCP China
examine the wiring I was quite sure I can use only two of the three contactors; but it is more to it than that as the solenoids will need power
I spent a bit of extra money and ordered a farm duty 5HP single phase motor, and besides I am a rancher so only the natural thing to do
while inspecting the motor I notice it was making a scratching sound when I hand rotate the shaft; soon I realized the fan cover shroud was dented from shipping as it weight in about 95 lb
this is the right tool to reshape the cover should
this motor is made in Mexico - which is good these days
it took a bit of read and comprehension to know how to make the motor rotate CCW with risking burning it up
a big bank of capacitors - this must be where the ultra-high starting torque comes from
it is actually slightly larger than the 3-phase Baldor
It was quite a chore to transfer the pulley from the Baldor over to the Dayton farm duty motor and one lapse of proper technique would mean the pulley would be stuck on the Baldor and will requires hours of work to recover from the disaster
Lifting the motor up onto the mount required all my might, without dropping it onto my foot or strain my back.
besides the hex set screw that is really tight that holds the pulley to the keyed motor shaft I also need to pull off the pulley, and to that I am thankful I have a cheapo puller that barely fit the job
it is just a temporary wiring for testing purposes as I didn't want to drill a cable restrain onto the motor until I am sure the compressor works
I wired up a 30A DPST switch so the compressor may be shut off at will; I hate the shut off switch with a wire rod toggle in most consumer grade compressors and I want something ergonomic and safe to use
next is to reverse the direction of rotation to suit the compressor pump
it is unlike the typical consumer pressure switch as it does not have the unloader valve
This industrial compressor pump rotates at just under 700 RPM. It has self-contained unloader starting, and auto drain of condensate function built in. It didn't come with a pressure gauge, nor a regulator so I have to procure those.
this video was taken during the final checkout after aligning and tensioning the belts and installed the fan guard; I then proceed to install the final proper wiring of the motor and to the wall service outlet
When you buy something you cannot functionally inspect there are risks involve, and I was prepared to deal with as I discover them. As the pressure built there was a loud leak. I first stand very far from the compressor in case the tank has a weak spot. Soon I carefully approach and found that the pressure switch was leaking. I was able to nearly eliminate the leak by tightening the screws of the diaphragm. As it appears to be the original part it is most impressive that it lasted this long (at least a few decades).
once I am satisfy with its operation and re-installed the belt guard I complete the wiring to the wall service box and between the magnetic switch and the motor; all the covers are buttoned up and secured
I checked the minute air leak at the pressure switch diaphragm since it been a day since I tighten up the screws. Evidently the gasket and the diaphragm must had time to compress and there is no long that minute leak. Because of this I canceled my order of a Square D replacement to save $18 which does not need to be spent.
To purchase this compressor new today, it is just above $4,000 USD. It is a higher end model which one can discern from it generous fin air cooling fins on the compressor as well as air lines. The internals of this pump can be rebuilt if needed. It has disc valves rather than common reed valves.
while the factory high pressure cutoff was set at 175 PSI I reduced it to 160 PSI which is plenty for me
The only remaining work is awaiting the arrival of a pressure regulator to be connected to the tank's 1/2" dia outlet port, and get a cover plate for the wall switch.
Don't use PVC pipe for compressed air! When using PVC pipe with compressed air, you run serious risks. The most dangerous of these is that of explosion. If put under stress that it cannot handle, PVC pipe can explode, sending plastic shrapnel flying. There have been numerous cases of this happening in compressed air applications, so OSHA does not allow the transportation of compressed gases in above-ground applications. PEX seems to be catching on for running compressed air lines. It can hold some pretty extreme pressures (750+ psi) and it splits when it does fail – not explode like PVC.
Don't use PVC pipe for compressed air! When using PVC pipe with compressed air, you run serious risks. The most dangerous of these is that of explosion. If put under stress that it cannot handle, PVC pipe can explode, sending plastic shrapnel flying. There have been numerous cases of this happening in compressed air applications, so OSHA does not allow the transportation of compressed gases in above-ground applications. PEX seems to be catching on for running compressed air lines. It can hold some pretty extreme pressures (750+ psi) and it splits when it does fail – not explode like PVC.
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