I have been letting the design of the axillary water tank simmer by not rushing to a design solutions. I have been open to all options, especially the selection of the plumbing fittings. More and more I want to make it a convertible system in that it can be easily removed to free up the storage space. To this I want an elegant solution that is user friendly and robust fool proof - though well aware better fools are the tendency of evolution.
I gave up trying to procure the Comet pumps and non-return valves from the Ukraine vendor. I really wanted to give them a fair chance, and even willing to send them fund via Western Union. However it got to a point that I wasted so much time and I have to call it off.
The UK vendor came through and the total cost is surprisingly lower after I pointed out I should not have to pay VAT. I have my fingers crossed that the parts will show up soon uneventfully. You just never know if the carrier or customs to throw you a curve ball.
I have been thinking about how to mount the pump and the method of addressing the power cable and the pump outlet hose through the tank wall. Remember the tank height is only 11-inch tall and the pump plus the non-return valve comes to about 6.3 inches. That does not leave much room for a barb fitting and the hose segment that allows you to service it. I have been looking for thru-tank mount double ended barb fitting and you can only find 3/4" diameter ones. No good.
the total height of the pump with the non-return valve is about 6.3 inches (160mm)
Eventually the convertible idea will bring me an elegant solution - a Colder valved fitting as in Brunnhilde's outdoor shower! It does not get more elegant than this. The idea came to me when I was staring at the tank in-situ exploring the feasibility of placing the tank with the port end facing the rear doors. The solution is hidden in plain sight right in front of my eyes. The fitting for the outdoor shower is what I need for the pump hose through the tank wall solution.
there are few advantages in having the tank oriented this way - the drain valve and may be the filling port will afford easy access
this 3/8" valved panel mount would be used for through the tank mount
With this fitting the barb end will be inside the tank in which the pump hose is connected to. On the outside a valved female fitting will be used for the water supply main that is also valved.
this 3/8" valved female fitting would be used for the "water main" hose
With these fittings no tool is required to remove or install the convertible auxiliary tank. Next, onto the solution for the filling inlet, the vent port, the drain port, and the access port. My time spent playing with the tank in-situ pays off.
you can see in this photos there is not much space between the rear doors and the tank for the needed plumbing fittings and hose radii
the elbow fitting installed onto the left side 1 1/2-inch port is definitely no-go
however if installed on the right side 1 1/2-inch port one can cut a hole in the hardboard panel of the door; i am likely not to use the elbow fitting but it give me some idea how much room i likely would need - for a fitting and the hose radius
Right now I have decided to fill the tank through the rear right side door open. I would use the right side 1 1/2-inch port for this. This will require a common garden hose fitting elevated above the top of the tank unless the fitting has a non-return valve. Since I have to install a deck plate as access port to install and service the submersible pump, the deck plate can also be used for filling the tank if gravity fill is required in the situation. To support this use case, I just have to mount the deck plate close to the rear of the tank on the top side.
just playing to see if the folding beach chair can fit on the top
the top right 1/4" barb fitting would be used for the vent hose - a short segment of hose may be elevated 10 inches at the end and facing the door to double as the overfill spill - will serve notice to whom being an idiot overfilling the tank
Update - 2015.06.06 14:14:
I decided to go ahead and order the Colder PLC series connectors since I am very impressed with their product's engineering, specifications, and quality. There are some ambiguities with the data sheet so I hedged my design selection of the connectors. I also ordered a spare for the critical ones that has built-in shutoff. While you can find some of the more common Colder PLC connectors on Amazon. freshwatersystems has the entire series and the prices are much cheaper with no-gouge shipping.
Once the Comet pump parts and these Colder fittings arrive the project should move forward very rapidly. So far my estimate of the total cost is the fittings will cost about the same as the tank itself. A total of about $250 - $300 not counting the material that I already have on hand.
There will be some miscellaneous plastic plumbing fittings that I cannot identify until I have the primary parts on hand. These includes NPT reduction bushings, barb to barb couplers, and hose clamps. On the Todd marine products, it is looking like the only thing in this project is just the 13 gallon tank. Their port kits all now look not optimal for my very space constrained installation. I can pick up a 4-inch deck plate (access port) for just $13. By modifying my solutions, I shift the cost around to achieve a more refined design and also lower cost. I pinch pennies where I can but have no problem buying good quality parts. It is all parts of the fun.
likely will need a couple of barb to barb reducer couplers
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