filters for brunnhilde - part 2

Today I set out to change the engine oil and air filter on Brunnhilde. Recently Napa Automotive Supply has Mobil 1 synthetic oil on sale for $5.98 a quart. This is about $0.50 cheaper than the lowest retail price. I stocked up 24 quarts enough for more than 2 oil changes.

Brunnhilde has engine oil capacity of 10 quarts (with filter change). My existing oil catcher pan is way too small so I bought this big one at Walmart. While it is not ideal, at ~$8.90 it is less than other automotive supply stores charge.

new oil catcher pan from walmart

What is not ideal about the catcher pan is the design of the top. It has a very shallow pan with a small hole in the center to allow the waste oil to drain into the big reservoir underneath. Looking at the design I just have a bad feeling if I used it as the manufacturer intends, I would have a very messy driveway because the rush of hot oil would splash when it hit the near-flat shallow collecting pan. I was quite convinced that I should jut cut out a big hole from the start.

Should I use it as is and see if it work well as is? I ponder on the idea a few days and I was so sure I don't want to risk using the pan without modifying it first.

marked out the cut line (the space on the left is kept for draining the filter)

the easiest way to do the cut is with a sharp utility knife (i used my favorite olfa 9mm utility knife)

a perfect cut out is easy as abc

my hunch was correct - had i didn't do the cut out i would have a very messy driveway from the oil splash

When I remove the 13mm drain bolt, I noticed that there is no copper washer on it. The previous person who performed the oil change somehow decided to cut the corner.

fortunately the oil filter that came with the filter kit include a copper washer

Next step after draining the old oil is to replace the oil filter. I was counting one of my old oil filter wrench would do the job and I cannot be more wrong. The oil filter is located in a very tight spot and the handle of my strap type wrench with a metal band can only rotate a few degrees. I struggle to try to unscrew the oil filter cap to no avail. Searched the Sprinter-Source forum I realize the right tool for the job is a rather uncommon socket-type 76mm oil filter wrench with 14 flutes.
socket-type oil filter wrench

I have little choice but to take a trip to a near by automotive supply hoping to find one. While Harbor Freight Tools has a 4-piece socket kit the one with the right diameter has 15 flutes instead of 14. I decide to give my neighbor who used to have a Sprinter a visit. While he does not have the socket type oil filter wrench for the Sprinter, he has a strap type wrench with a nylon webbing. I borrow it and while it is not perfect it did the trick in the confine space. I was grateful that I save the drive to the wild goose chase to find the rare socket.

filter cartridge removed; the three old o-rings are also replaced with new ones that came with the new filter

i made a funnel with a oil container to make the pouring easier

my modified catcher pan worked great; the dam that i left along the pour spout make the pouring into a container for recycling mess-free; the grey thing inside is the fuel filter that i was draining

as a habit i always drain out the last drop of oil from the empty oil container before disposing them - good to the last drop (as the slogan of the old maxwell house coffee commercial)

Next I proceed to change the air filter. I was assuming the job would be a cake walk and I was wrong. Often European vehicle can throw you a surprise even with the simplest of task. Unlike the American counterpart, the European would go the extra mile to cram more into the same space for a very tight package. This is the case with the Sprinter engine compartment. The top of the air box cannot be removed without first removing the turbo charger and exhaust heat shield first. Also the top of the air box also house the hot wire type air mass flow sensor and another transducer so there are two wire harnesses attached to it.

removing the turbo charger and exhaust heat shield

 hot wire type air mass sensor - looking from inside the airbox

 hot wire type air mass sensor - looking from outside the airbox

with the top part of the air box removed out comes the air filter - it is certainly due for a change; the filter is huge and has very large surface area created by the very tight and numerous pleats

new filter from hengst

now you can see how dirty the old filter is

the two filter construction is nearly identical - both very high quality

Seeing the amount of sand particles on the dirty filter is very sobering on the important of a good quality air filter and routine replacement.

Next step is to inspect and clean the airbox

no dirt on the engine intake side of the airbox -the filter element sure did a great job

 the other (pre-filter) side of the air box is full of dirt and debris, as expected

i use an air gun to blow clean the dirt in the air box

much cleaner now and ready for the new filter

re-installing the heat shield

re-installing a cable tie securing the loose harness which i had to cut to remove the air box top assembly

reattach the cable tie anchor fastens to the heat shield

all back to together

The biggest huddle of the job was struggling to remove the oil filter cap without a right tool. Otherwise the oil and oil filter, and air filter change are not that difficult. With each new vehicle it always take longer doing it the first time dealing with the unfamiliar and unexpected.

The truly finish the job, I have to figure out how to reset the maintenance clock of the vehicle's maintenance reminder system.

Sep 30 Update
I have spent a lot of time trying to determine the right socket for the T1N Sprinter online to no avail. As always there are a few vendors sell the socket but by the time you pay shipping it become prohibitively expensive. None of them shows the specifics of the socket because they don't want you to buy locally.

Harbor Freight sells a kit of 4 sockets but the one of the right diameter has 15 flutes instead of 14 flutes on the Sprinter. With some internet forensics I eventually was able to positively identify the right socket dimensions. It is 75.6mm with 14 flutes as shown on Napa's online catalog. Strange thing is the vehicle or price are not identified until after I placed it into a shopping cart.

I called my neighborhood Napa but they don't have it in stock. They order it for me from the warehouse and I just have to pay the $7.49 listed price when it arrive to the store next Tuesday.

Anyway I hope this would help anyone looking to buy the right socket for a T1N sprinter but want to avoid the often inflated shipping cost
i picked up the socket on oct 4 and it is indeed the correct tool; napa part number 77-3867. it is a steel construction and accepts 3/8" ratchet wrench.